World's Highest Mountains

Days with most elevation changes

1. Day 12 - Thorung Phedi over Thorung La pass to Ranipauwa: - 916m from our camp up to the summit, then 1716m down to Ranipauwa for a net elevation change of 2632m / 8635ft.

2. Day 19 - Ghorepani - Poon Hill - Ghandruk: 886m up and down Poon Hill before dawn, then 240m up to Deurali, 470m down to Banthanti, 70m up to Tadapani and 650m down to Ghandruk - 2316m / 7598ft

3. Day 17 - Dana to Tatopani to Sikha: 210m downhill from Dana to the hotsprings of Tatopani and then 740m in the afternoon heat up Gurung hill to Sikha - 950m / 3117ft

Hardest Days

1. Day 12 - Thorung Phedi over Thorung La pass to Ranipauwa: - huge elevation change - freezing -10°C to -15°C morning - low atmospheric pressure allowing less than 1/2 the oxygen at sea level - steep uphill to the summit, intense sun with blinding reflection off the snow and little ozone protection, steep knee/back popping descent over rock, scree, snow, mud.

2. Day 14 - Kagbeni to Jomson/Dhumpa Tal: Upon reaching Kagbeni you enter the Kali Gandaki valley and encounter a powerful headwind which blows relentlessly from late morning to late afternoon. Along the way walking along the valley consists of boulder hopping, slip-sliding over scree-like terrain and slugging through fine sand. A long day of this was really draining. A tough day on the knees and back.

3. Day 17 - Dana to Tatopani to Sikha: The day starts off easy enough with an easy downhill walk to play in the hot springs of Tatopani but then a bitch of an uphill up Gurung Hill towards Ghorepani. All the way you walk along the stone-steps common to the Gurung area but the varying-height steps allow no stepping rhythm and after ascending each section of steps another set appears around the next bend - seemingly endless! All this in searing subtropical afternoon heat!

Favourite Campsites

1. Day 6 - Small Green Lake: Picture a secluded, emerald green lake nestled in the middle of a forest in the Marsayangdi valley with a breathtaking view of Annapurna II reflected into the lake and mist rising from the lake early in the morning along with the morning sun over the Annapurnas.

2. Day 20 - Australian Camp: A quiet, well kept, flat, grassy campsite off the main trail. Beautiful views of the valley below (granted it was cloudy when we arrived) and of Annapurna South and Macchapuchare. As our last campsite the night was punctuated with the sound of revelry as our staff sang and danced for us to celebrate the end of the trek.

3. Day 8-9 - Braga: A neat campsite in the front yard of a bulding (used as our dining hall) with an enclosure affording some level of privacy. Above us a great view of the town of Braga and the 600 year monestary atop and incredible views of the Annapurna Himal along the valley. Quieter than Manang, the standard Lonely Planet stopover. Across from our campsite was the attractive Buddha Hotel serving apple crumble to die for and offering hot showers.

How NOT to dress in Nepal....it's not polite to walk around with your shirt off in a modest Hindu/Buddhist country like Nepal, especially if you sport a shag on your front and back like this guy ==>>

Favourite Views

1. Day 12 - Thorung La summit and descent: Incredible views of the mountains towering over the Kali Gandaki valley including Dhaulagiri and the rugged, arid landscape of the Upper Mustang region.

2. Day 6 - Bhratang - Pisang - Small Green Lake: After breaking through the valley in Bhratang one is presented with the spetacular smooth sloping Paungda Danda rockface from behind as you walk up the Marsayangdi valley towards Braga/Manang. Along the way towers the Annapurna range, with just-shy-of-8000m Annapurna II as the first mountain.

3. Day 13 - Muktinath - Kagbeni: Without a cloud in the sky the day is full of great views of this region of Upper Mustang - rugged, arid landscape with terrific views of the Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri mountain ranges. Along the way is pleasing-to-the-eye village of Jharkot, perched on a ride and further on the green fields of Kagbeni standout in the Kali Gandaki valley below.

4. Day 17-18 - Tatopani - Sikha - Ghorepani: During the tough ascent of Gurung hill you're presented with a spetacular view of Dhaulagiri from behind as you're surrounded by neatly terraced farmlands all the way up the hill.

** Had that morning not been cloudy Poon Hill would no doubt be one of the best views as from this extremely popular viewpoint one can see an incredible Himalayan panorama encompassing the Dhaulagiri, Annapurna and Manaslu ranges along with the fishtail peaked Macchapuchare. As our guide Chandra described "..it's like being in heaven" **